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WHAT AM  I DRINKING?

For the past month, on and off, we have been trialling new food recipes to complement the finalists of the 2010 Competition, in each of the thirteen Style Categories . One recipe that didn’t make it was a Duck Casserole which was considered a little too rich for the Pinot Noirs Category and also a little too awkward for the Judges to manipulate the on-the-bone meat in the judging wines-for-food phase of the Competition. 

However it worked beautifully with a 2006 Villa Maria “Cellar Selection” Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Syrah, a sample bottle left over from the 2009 Sydney Exhibitions of the TOP 1OO and Blue-Gold Award winning wines.

Here are some of the Judges’ comments on the Syrah at the time of the 2009 Competition’s Judging, last October. With some integration of tannins, it has developed nicely in bottle since then.  

In France, Syrah (or Shiraz, as it is known in Australia) reaches the epitome of its expression in the Northern Rhône, around and above the town of Tain l’Hermitage.  Tain l’Hermitage is situated at latitude 45º N.   In other words, relatively speaking, Northern Rhône Syrah is cool grown.

In Australia, Shiraz presents in many styles including a few cooler grown expressions. Most Oz Shiraz, however, is grown in warmer climes.  South Australia’s Barossa Valley for example lies at around latitude 35º S, New South Wales’ Hunter Valley at around 33º S.  Of course, there are many other factors that determine a wine’s style. 

Nevertheless, cooler climate Shiraz tends to be more sculptured, finely defined, tightly focused, elegant.  Warmer climate Shiraz, more robust in structure, abundant flavours and body weight. In boxing terminology, the body weight comparison would be Super Middleweight as compared to Cruiser Weight or Heavy Weight.

Both styles reach their apogee in the dining experience, when complementing appropriate food.  This Villa Maria Syrah looked fine complementing this Duck Casserole. It does benefit from decanting for 3-4 hours before serving.  Serve at about 18-20º C.    Here is the Recipe for our ….

Duck Casserole with Turnip
(For six diners.)

Equipment
Preferably, large, lidded iron casserole. Lidded oven-proof ceramic casserole also suitable but in this case, heavy based fry pan also required for sautéing.

Ingredients:
6 x duck supremes (thigh and drumstick, skin on).
18 x shallots (small brown onions)
2 x medium turnips
70 mls quality olive oil.
70gms unsalted butter
Approx 1 litre best commercial chicken stock.  (Use your own reduction if available.)
150 mls orange liqueur (Grand Marnier etc)
4 x star anise.
4 x medium size oranges.
1  cup of curly parsley roughly chopped,

Method:

  1. Peel and slice each turnip into eight segments.  Set aside.
  2. Skin the shallots.  Leave ends on, so they will remain whole.  Set aside.
  3. Squeeze the juice from two of the oranges.  Strain, set juice aside. Discard the rest.
  4. With a sharp knife, remove all skin and rind off the other two oranges. Keep naked oranges..
  5. Cut out and discard the cores of orange flesh; slice the main flesh of the two naked oranges into segments, 12 per orange. Set aside.
  6. Finely slice (julienne) the skins of the two naked oranges.  Set aside.
  7. Trim excess fat off the duck supremes.
  8. Heat the (fan forced) oven to about 180º C
  9. On the big burner of the hob/cooktop, heat the oil and butter in the heavy iron casserole (or heavy fry pan), don’t let if burn, and sauté the duck supremes both sides, three at a time, for 2-3 minutes.  Remove and set aside onto paper kitchen towels.
  10. Turn the heat down to 140º C, add the shallots to the oil/butter, and roll the shallots around for 8-10 minutes to lightly brown them.
  11. Add the stock, orange juice, orange liqueur, orange rind.  Bring to the boil.
  12. Add the turnip slices and the duck supremes.
  13. (If you have been using a frypan to this point, remove all to the ceramic casserole.)
  14. Cover the casserole and place in the preheated 180º C oven for about 40-60 minutes.
  15. Check the casserole after 25 minutes, to ensure its liquids are not reducing too quickly. If they are, reduce oven heat to 120ºC and check again every ten minutes for as long as it takes to ensure the duck supremes, the turnips and the shallots are cooked to perfection.
  16. Add the orange segments to the casserole ten minutes before the dish is cooked to perfection.
  17. Add the chopped parsley as a garnish when serving.

You choose the other vegetables /carbohydrates you may prefer to serve with this dish.  Could depend on the plate on which you choose to serve it.  A deeper plate may require no further accompaniment.  Purées of carrot, potato, celeriac, parsnip, green peas, broad beans all come to mind.  (Be careful if committing to the latter.  Takes a lot of preparation, as I was forced to recently remember.)  Lightly boiled broccoli is a simple, nice green accompaniment. Even plain boiled or steamed short grain rice - or a good bread roll to mop up the delicious sauces?

 

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